One of my upcoming “Radio” projects involves MQTT running on a raspberry Pi. I’m more familiar with C than I am with Python so to talk to the MQTT broker I went looking for a C based client.
I eventually settled on the Eclipse Paho MQTT C Client library, however it doesn’t come with an ARM based Linux binary package like you get for all the python peeps. Instead you’ve got to compile this from source, I guess since I’m intending to use C in the first place I should be OK. So back to the command line.
Starting with a bone stock installation of Raspbian Buster Lite I simply used the following commands in a shell;
$ sudo apt-get install git libssl-dev doxygen graphviz
$ cd /tmp
$ git clone https://github.com/eclipse/paho.mqtt.c
$ cd paho.mqtt.c/
$ make html
$ sudo make install
$ cd /tmp
$ rm -rf paho.mqtt.c
I found all of the commands above in the git repository README.md file. One thing I noticed was when compiling the libssl-dev library generated a good many “deprecated” warnings about old TLS ciphers being used (ie TLS 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 and SSL 2.0 & 3.0) so if you’re intending to use these it might be best to dig a little further. In my case this wasn’t important so I’ve filed it away here as a note to self for future reference.
So now it was just a question if the library works, the simplest way to do this was to compile the included examples and see if they work. So back off to the command line we go.
So while testing the heat exchanger and thermostat were working I also found the alternator was not charging the battery. I’d noticed that the volt meter on the dash was not showing more than 12V and then confirmed this with a multimeter across the battery. Sigh one thing always leads to another.
The original alternator has certainly been in the boat for a long while and was in a rather decrepit condition, someone had also taken to the upper arm of the alternator bracket with a grinder to make clearance, a sure sign it was not original.
So the alternator fitted to the Nereus turns out was a Delco 10SI chassis with an external RE55 bosch regulator. I’m quite familiar with this regulator since they were originally designed and made at my current work place here in Australia. This was certainly a long way from being a standard issue Ford alternator.
There are still replacements for these Bosch external alternators around, but they are now well and truly obsolete and getting pricey and hard to get. Even if I know who made them. The Delco alternator frame also could not be pulled apart, it was rusted solid. I tried for a couple of days with heat and Penetrene to get the frame screws that hold the two halves of the unit together to release. Alas they were firmly stuck and right on the verge of stripping, so there was certainly no point in sending it off to be rebuilt.
However one of the attractions of the Ford 250ci inline 6-cylinder engine is the ancillary parts are all based on the Ford 302/351W Windsor (hint: Ford engineers were clever or lazy !?!), so many of the V8 ski boat marine accessories from the 1970’s to mid 1990’s will fit my engine. So a bit of poking around the internet and auto parts stores resulted in me purchasing a Sierra 18-5957 marine alternator from a marine service agency in Queensland that has surplus stock on eBay. It was half the price of a new automotive alternator from a well known German Manufacturer and about the same price as the cheap Chinese knockoffs. Decision made.
Fitting the new marine alternator up when it arrived was a complete doddle (meaning easy), all that I required was a small spacer to pack out the foot on the lower bolt from 51 to 76mm. I had some old GM spacers that were 32mm long, I just cut one down to 25mm long.
Once I had it fitted up I had to pay attention to the clearance between the back of the alternator and the heat exchanger. By putting on a longer belt it meant I could hang the alternator further out from the block. So it was off to the auto parts store for a new belt which happened to be 40mm longer (11A1105) than the one I had already. There are even longer belts available and plenty of room on the control arm to move out further should I need it. I may however try to find a suitable arm to replace the one i have, it looks terrible due to its previous brush with an angle grinder.
Of note when replacing the alternator one has to be careful with the pulley diameters and make sure that the maximum shaft speed of the alternator is not exceeded. You’ve also got to compromise on the lower speed when at idle, otherwise the battery can still go flat. However reading the single small sheet of paper that the Sierra Alternator came with did not specify the maximum rpm. So oh boy I get to make some guesses.
The Sierra alternator came with a 50mm pulley and the standard crank pulley on a Ford 302 Windsor (including mercruisers) is 165mm, meaning at wide open throttle (WOT) the alternator would spin at 4800 x 165 / 50 = 15850 rpm. On my Ford 250ci inline- 6 WOT is 4500rpm and the crank pulley is 176mm, so 4500 * 176 / 50 = 15840 rpm; so roughly about the same.
I’m still not convinced that this is right and have emailed Sea Star Solutions who own Sierra to double check this is ok. There are alternator pulleys with diameters of 59.7mm , 66.7mm & 71.1mm. If these diameters look funny it’s because they are all technically imperial. However I’m more used to working in metric now days.
One benefit of the higher pulley ratio is some addtional output current at and around Idle. So reading the Sierra Alternator spec sheet the alternator at idle is rotating around 700 x 176 / 50 = 2464rpm, which should mean the alternator can deliver nearly 48A to a flat battery. This would make cranking on the anchor winch much less of a problem.
The Sierra 18-5957 alternator has an internal regulator, so all of the external regulator wiring could be removed. There were no wiring instructions in the box, but this is a common aftermarket alternator so there are plenty of instructions on the net.
So the trick with this alternator is to wire the red to a switched +12 wire from the ignition switch. The best place for this on a Ford 250ci is from the coil positive. Which on my moter is the opposide side to the alternator.
The black wire is the sense wire, it is not an earth. The sense wire means it is connected to the positive terminal on the battery. This means the internal regulator can measure the battery terminal voltage independantly of the +B terminal and allow constant current charging of the start battery to occur. It’s worth noting that if you are measuring the battery voltage of the console of your boat make sure it’s not from the ignition switch supply, which is wired to the +B pin of the alternator. Otherwise you’ll find the voltage being displayed abnormally high.
So once this was all done it was time to fire her up and give it a test. Nothing like making a video, hopefully these make sense.
Wooo that 3″ wet exchaust on a inline-6 with no muffer sounds good ! Now I can move onto checking the wiring and perhaps sea trials.
For a while now I’ve been meaning to investigate the Message Queuing Telemetry Transport protocol or MQTT as it’s more commonly known. While the protocol is nearly 20 years old it has become increasingly popular with the Internet of Things (IoT).
The original MQTT code was donated by IBM and Eurotech to the Eclipse Paho project more than 10 years ago now and since then has been extended and massaged into what is known as Mosquitto today. I also like that Eclipse have done a lot of work writing clients for a great many platforms making the developers job just that much easier. A few of my friends have used it professionally so it comes recommended and seems like a good place to start.
So I wanted to experiment with this on a Raspberry Pi (there is a plan more on this later!), so after a bit of googling I found a nice guide written by Adafruit (click) that was the basis of what I used to setup my MQTT stack.
The following is what I needed to do to install Mosquitto on a stock installation of Raspbian Buster Lite. The Mosquitto package is available pre-compiled for ARM in the Debian repo’s so that makes life much easier;
The configuration above is just a basic one for testing. It is by no means secure or ready for production systems, you have been warned. Once the config has been written the following two commands can be used to start Mosquitto and check it is actually running;
$ sudo systemctl start mosquitto.service
$ sudo systemctl status mosquitto.service
There are small apps that can be used to throw data into the MQTT broker and create topics to publish and subscribe data to and from. Once I’ve worked this out for myself I’ll throw something here.
One of the “new to me” things my Nereus has come with is a heat exchanger. The heat exchanger allows the inboard engine to be cooled much like a radiator except the coolant is not cooled by air but by raw sea water instead.
To the side is a picture of the heat exchanger in situ. The upper larger hose is where the coolant enters the heat exchanger and the coolant pump draws water from the bottom. The raw water cunningly runs the other way to ensure maximum heat transfer. So raw water enters at the bottom and exits from just under the top tank.
In all of our previous inboard boats the raw water (sea or fresh) was pumped through the engine block before being discharged into the wet exhaust. Running raw sea water in any engine is not a good idea for two reasons;
Salt can be deposited out of solution when it is heated above +68degC
Salt water is rather corrosive to things like Iron and Aluminium
So in the case of a raw water cooled cast iron engine the coolant galleries will over time get caked in salt deposits or holes develop in the block where you don’t want them to which ultimately leads to premature engine failure. This is not so much of a problem for boats run in fresh water. Having a heat exchanger doesn’t prevent raw water salt deposits from high temps, but at least periodically we can service the heat exchanger and make sure the raw water tubes are kept clear. There are also special solutions that can be purchased to dissolve these deposits, something I’ll be looking at soon.
However not having had a heat exchanger before I had no idea what maintenance was necessary. Thankfully I was able to find a name plate on the heat exchanger which lead me to the manufacturer and model a Savage MK1 Compact built across the pond in New Zealand.
I was also pleased to find they had a local Australian distributor Luxfords in Victoria. It is not often you find distributors that are happy to assist customers with old products, so it was pleasant to say the least when I gave them a ring and received a healthy dose of good ol’ fashioned service. Kudos indeed ! So after my quick phone call I had all of the parts necessary to refurbish my heat exchanger delivered to me in a couple of days.
So the team at Luxfords suggested that I replace the sacrificial anode, an o-ring seal and a couple of washers made from nylon. However firstly I had to get it out of the boat. Here’s a photo of the unit in situ and once extracted, this turned out to be a marathon with some of the bolts requiring patience to get them undone due to restricted access;
So it turns out the heat exchanger is nickel plated copper not stainless as I first guessed, so there has been some form of corrosion on going on that resulted in the tarnished green appearance. Nothing a light slight scrub with steel wool couldn’t remove. It would also appear that the rubber on the clamps that hold the heat exchanger had perished and were split, so once again a phone call to Luxfords and they came to the rescue with the new clamps.
Once the unit was extracted from the boat I was able to find two captive head nuts that then allowed me to separate the bottom cap from the upper tank and main body of the unit.
This was where the fun really began.
One of these captive nuts is found within the header tank that holds the coolant and once removed I found a brass rod that runs between the coolant tank at the top and raw sea water cavity in the bottom. As you can see in the images below it was the lower nut that decided that it would undo.
It was now very clear what the nylon washers were for, one of these washers was supposed to provide the seal between the two cooling systems, meaning the raw sea water and engine coolant.
It was a little horrifying to find that the heat exchanger unit didn’t have one fitted. Gulp.
It may very well have been serviced in the past and it was overlooked, perished or removed. This meant the only seal between these two chambers was bring provided by a metal to metal surface, phew yet another bullet dodged.
So digging further through the spares kit I’d been supplied, I still had a second nylon washer, 3″ o-ring and a sacrificial anode. The o-ring was easy that went on the lower cap and sealed this and the main tube. I was then guessing the second nylon washer went under second captive nut again to seal the raw water chamber at the bottom. That just left the sacrificial anode.
As you can see In the pictures above there wasn’t much of the old sacrificial anode left before things got hairy. The compact heat exchanger requires the anode to be trimmed slightly (approx 15mm) to fit, which was easily done with a junior hacksaw. This was reinstalled with a bit of thread tape to make sure it too didn’t leak. I’ll be pulling this anode out every service interval to inspect, it certainly won’t ever get that short again.
When reassembling I did not forget to include the nylon washer under the captive nut of on the threaded rod that sits inside the tank, I even took a photo to make sure I didn’t forget.
Then it was a simple matter to clean up and reassemble the unit read to go back into the boat. In the photo below you can clearly see the raw water inlet and outet. As a precaution I put a little marine grease on the lower o-ring around the lower cap to ensure it wasn’t pinched by the outer tube when inserted. Below is a picture of the unit awaiting re-installation including its new clamps.
Once back in the boat I need to pressure test the raw water and make sure it does not leak into the coolant tank. Then it will easy to fill the engine with cooland and run the engine to check everything works.
Now it’s time to tackle the alternator and electrical systems.
While changing the oil in my Nereus I was watching the temperature gauge and noticed that the engine temperature would warm up to 95 degrees before the thermostat would open, once open the temperature would drop markedly to 80 degrees before finally settling at 85 degrees. It was quite clear that the thermostat was faulty if not on the way out. There was no way I could leave it like that.
Since this boat has a heat exhanger the thermostat is the same as used in a car so replacement parts shouldn’t be hard to get from the auto parts store. The thermostat is hidden behind the usual cover at the front of the engine;
It also looked like the gasket was not sealing well with evidence of a small leak having occurred at some point. The downside of replacing the thermostat it would require the coolant to be drained, so it’s was also time to also service the heat exchanger and kill two birds with the one stone. Note to self I need to find out what’s required here.
The first surprise upon pulling the bolts out of the old thermostat cover was the bolt on the port side was mild steel and was only being held by three turns, it was a little short. The other starboard side bolt was stainless and much longer (32mm cf 25mm). A quick confirmation with a set of vernier calipers told me the right length was 32mm. Now this engine is from the period where metric and imperial co-existed in Australia. So it was highly likely the bolt as 5/16 imperial and not 8mm metric. So a quick measurement with a thread gauge confirmed it was a 5/16 UNC 1 1/2″ long bolt that also required a split washer, so off to the bolt shop we go I don’t have much in the way of imperial bolts in my workshop.
The thermostat housing was a little pitted, so that was duly rubbed on the concrete with a circular motion to grind away some of the surface material to remove the pits (easier than sandpaper and a sheet of glass if you don’t have it) and all traces of the gasket were removed with a utility knife. The thermostat also came with a new paper gasket, which was duly coated in Hilomar M to ensure a good seal and then re-assembled.
It doesn’t look much different than before, except the keen observer will see the bolts have changed just a little and there’s no sign of that coolant leak. The proof will be that it doesn’t leak.
The last task was to get all of the coolant out of the bilge, so to the pumps… well the bilge pump at least. Before I threw the coolant all over the driveway the outlet was redirected into a bucket and fresh water used to dilute the coolant sufficiently until no more “Green” was observed in the bilge discharge.
Time to move onto the Heat Exchanger before re-filling with coolant.
There is surprisingly little about marinising car engines and putting them in boats.
Manufacturers like Mercuiser, OMC, Pleasurecraft and others have being doing this under their own brands for many years and it was quite common in the early 70’s through to the mid 90’s that various companies were doing it themselves in a workshop. My new boat is one of the later.
So after having owned my Nereus for a while now I thought I’d detail what I’ve learnt about it so far about the marinised Ford 6-cylinder engine that is in it;
Ford 250 pre-crossflow inline 6-cylinder (donor either Ford Falcon XA or XB)
Strongberg 1-bbl down draft carburettor
Delco Alternator (10SI body) with external regulator (RE55)
Bosch starter motor
Standard Kettering Ignition with Bosch GM573 points (!!!) and 12V coil
Borg Warner Velvet Drive Gearbox
Savage MK1 Compact Heat Exchanger
Fynspray 3/4″ Raw Water Pump
Marinised Wet Exhaust – Unknown
So the only unidentified part on this engine is the wet exhaust manifold, I’m hoping that at some point I’ll work out who made it. There may be a plate or a marking that I’ve not found yet that will give me a clue.
From the list above it is quite clear that this is a “car engine in a boat” which has not yet been completely marinised. Many of the accessories and ancillary parts are still automotive grade parts which are not intrinsically safe in a marine environment. To properly marinise any engine and make it safe one has to reduce the chance of a spark from igniting fuel vapour in the bilge and/or prevent fuel vapour from being released into the bilge in the first place.
With anything that I rely on to get me home safely the engine in this boat is certainly right up there on my list of things to pay attention too. So as I go through the boat doing my usual checks and maintenance I’ll be upgrading various parts to improve safety where necessary. Since this boat was made in the mid to late 1980’s there is no immediate need to rush out and replace the engine and all of it’s accessories, since it has lasted this long already without them.
One of the more interesting jobs with an inboard boat is changing the oil. Unlike a car it’s a little challenging to get under the boat and drain the oil into a pan. When purchasing the boat one thing I noticed was someone had installed a manual oil pump, you should be able to see the shiny thing in the middle there with a handle.
So the first step was to get the engine oil warmed up before we pump it out. Since this was the first oil change I decided to use some engine flush to make sure it’s as clean as we can. Once the engine was good and hot the oil was a doddle to pump into a bucket and remove. Then it was a simple matter to replace the oil filter and re-fill.
I’ve so far been happy with the Penrite Oil I put in my Hilux, so once again I’ve gone with the same brand. Using the Penrite product selector it suggested a standard mineral oil with plenty of zinc, so 5L of Penrite HPR30 was purchased. I’m thankful these older engines only requrie 4 and a bit litres of oil, so only a 5L bottle is required.
I was happy to find that the oil filter used is the same as my old Hilux, that will save some confusion in the future.
Now to get in and start degreasing the engine and bilge.
For many years I’ve been wanting to purchase a Nereus inboard fishing boat. These boats were made in South Australia from the early 1970’s until the early Naughties. They are a very popular fishing boat that has a wide beam and is well known for it’s excellent handling in rough seas.
Finally after a 12 month search a Nereus came onto the market that ticked all my boxes. In a nutshell I wanted a boat 16-18′ in length, with a good hull, on a good trailer with an inboard engine and gearbox. If it came with a heat exchanger that was a bonus.
Well here’s a picture of our new purchase on the trailer at Port Wakefield on our way home from Yorke Penninsula. It certainly doesn’t look like a boat built in the mid 1980’s.
While the Nereus is common in SA that doesn’t mean they come up for sale often, it also means that when they do come up they hold their price. So to offset the cost and ensure it doesn’t sit on a trailer for extended periods I’ve gone halves with my Parents. Between my father and I we should able to get her in the water and out fishing as often as we can.
Here’s a few pics of the inboard engine;
The engine in this Nereus is a Ford 250 cubic inch pre-crossflow log head inline six cylinder. Being the pre-cross flow engine this inline six is the American designed log head which was used in a heap of different vehicles. Of note you can find them in Mustangs and F100’s in the states, or Ford Falcon XA/XB/XW/XY and some Cortinas from the 1970’s. The block numbers suggest the doner car was a 1972 Ford XA Falcon This should make it fairly straight forward to get spare parts.
Anyway that’s the Nereus in a nutshell. I’ve already started making a list of the “jobs to do” and I’m looking forward to getting cracking.
One of my son’s laptops recently suffered a hard drive failure. He’d been using his “roadkill” laptop for a year or so that came pre-installed with Windows 10. Until now I’ve avoided upgrading any of my machines past Windows 7 (why fix what isn’t broken) and I personally prefer Linux on my laptops for reasons.
The roadkill laptop I’d given my eldest son was a HP business machine so it wasn’t hard to slip a new WD Green SSD drive and give it a small boost in performance at the same time.
Reinstalling Window 10 was also rather simple, simply requiring creation of a USB media stick and following the bouncing ball with the license codes I had on paper.
So far so good.
However upon booting the machine I was horrified with the push to sign up for a Microsoft account to “simplify your user experience”. Ummm childs laptop, not a good idea to suck on the cool-aide and allow tracking of habits at a young age, there stills needs to be some privacy. So with the help of Google we managed to create a local account (not intuitive), which does not require internet access to login.
So now we have an account on the local machine I could see what the new UI looks like. Once again I wasn’t impressed with the standard apps installed, the bloat and blatant adverting gumph plastered on every screen. There was content waiting and ready to download as soon as you clicked on an icon, installed games and a host of stuff I wouldn’t let corporate users access too. So off they came too.
I’m going to be forever thankful to the writers at HowToGeek for there series of articles on how to disable the advertising and things like Cortana (also not what I want on my childs laptop). Below are the two articles I found most useful;
The Efratom LPRO-101 has a Built in Test Equipment (BITE) signal available on Pin 6. This pin is connected to the 5V logic within the module. When the BITE signal goes LOW (0V) then the physics engine has achieved lock within roughly +/-5×10-8 of it’s absolute frequency. Thankfully it can do this within 3-4 minutes of operation.
When I’m out in the field it is certainly useful to know what the reference is doing or if something has gone wrong without having to pull it apart and get out a multimeter. So on the front panel I’ve placed two LEDs one for power and the second to show lock.
The lock signal will be nothing more than the BITE signal inverted, which can be done with one transistor. I’ve seen some quite elaborate two and three transistor circuits, but we only really need one. The circuit I’ve draw below is straight out of my engineering log book, it’s so simple I couldn’t be bothered firing up Altium to draw it;
Basically we use one transistor to shunt the LED so that it is OFF while the BITE signal is HIGH. There is no rocket science here. With the heaters in the reference drawing 1.2A at startup throwing an additional 15mA through a transistor until it’s locked should be no big deal. The entire current drawn is approx 30mA, they are certainly bright enough in daylight, they might require turning down after using this at night, time will tell.
The circuit above is so simple I built it dead bug style on a piece of vero board. I did this so I could simply use double sided tape to hold it to the box and not short anything out.
One minor annoyance I’ve found is at the time power is applied the BITE output remains LOW for half a second or more before it goes HIGH. This means that the locked LED will light momentarily, then go out for 3-4 minutes as the reference warms before it lights again. The video below shows what I mean, for such a simple circuit I’m happy to put up with this feature;
You can hear the first click of the power supply, the Locked LED will light and go back out again. This was done when the reference was already warm so it takes less than 20s to regain lock again.
Anyway I’m certainly pleased with the simplicity. However now I’ve got ideas to use a micro a DAC and give this thing some intelligence. More notes in the log book for when I find time to come back to this again, for now it’s time to get out in the field and use it in anger !